Royal County Down, Newcastle, Northern Ireland: Northern Ireland's most socially conscious golf club is awash in doctors, lawyers, judges and industrialists, mainly from Belfast. There's no waiting list, not that it matters: few members leave before death and membership is by invitation only. What's valued is camaraderie, the better to contend in the Hat game, where names are drawn to see who plays with whom. A bit of patience is in order, too, to handle one of the most beautiful, brutal links in the world. It's not impossible for a visitor to play as a guest, but bring a blazer and be prepared to change clothes and shoes in the car park. As David Feherty once wryly said, if you show up without dandruff on your collar then the club will provide it for you.