Fast Times at Turtle Bay Resort on Oahu

Kauai is the Garden Island. Maui is the Valley Island. Hawaii is the Big Island, and Oahu--well, Oahu is the Layover Island, with most seasoned travelers using Honolulu Airport as a hub on their way to a more authentic Hawaiian vibe on the other lush rocks in the mid-Pacific. But while Waikiki may deserve its rep as a tourist trap, Oahu gets a bad rap. Surfers know the north shore is Lani (heaven), and golfers should take note: The Turtle Bay Resort on the island's northernmost tip has completed a $60 million renovation that promises a real island experience right here on Oahu.

The north shore is an hour's drive from Waikiki, but the two destinations are as different as China and Chinatown. Pineapple and sugar plantations once dominated the landscape between the steep Punamano Mountains and the blue Pacific. For ages, migrating humpback whales had the waters between Kuilima Point and Waimea Bay pretty much to themselves during the winter when the thundering surf produced taboo waves, mountains of water three stories tall that were thought to be unrideable.

That was until a merry band of '60s surf bums conquered Waimea, and its leader Greg "Da Bull" Noll achieved legend status by catching the biggest wave ever.

In 1972, Del Webb opened a resort on Kuilima Point that went on to fly the flags of Hyatt and then Hilton before its current incarnation as Turtle Bay Resort. More impressive than the $60 million investment are the resort's 880 acres and 5.5 miles of coastline. The aforementioned overhaul, completed in December 2003, added a new spa, spruced up the 401 rooms and suites and 42 luxe beach cottages--each sporting an ocean view--and breathed desperately needed new life into the only resort on Oahu with 36 holes of tournament-caliber golf.

The Fazio Course (George, not Tom) debuted with the original Del Webb resort and played host to Arnold Palmer, Gary Player, Sam Snead and Chi Chi Rodriguez in the inaugural Senior Skins Game in 1988. Four years later, the back nine closed to accommodate construction of a new Arnold Palmer-Ed Seay track, but money matters hampered the reopening of the full Fazio--for 10 years. Back now with an all-new inward nine, the Fazio is the friendlier of the two courses: fairly flat with ample greens, back tees measuring 6,535 yards and bunkers that are as lenient as a favorite uncle.